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Posted by ascentnb on

UNB Rock and Ice Gear Donation

UNB Rock and Ice Gear Donation

As you may recall, Ascent New Brunswick is organizing a high-angle rescue team as part of its commitments for the land use agreement with Base Gagetown. To be effective, the team has requirements for gear as well as people, and the cost of the gear was going to be a big challengCMC Rescue MPDe for Ascent.

Thankfully, Ascent New Brunswick truly has the community behind it. Recently, UNB Rock and Ice reiterated its support of Ascent and our mission when it donated an integral piece of rescue gear to the rescue team initiative.

The CMC Rescue MPD is not your average piece of rescue gear. It has been highly engineered to provide a state of the art mechanism for making rescues more simple and efficient.

So a big thank you goes out to UNB Rock and Ice! We really appreciate your continued support!


 

“The MPD’s high-efficiency pulley, with an integral rope-grab mechanism, allows it to be used as a lowering device on the main line and belay line systems and be quickly changed over to a raising system without switching out or replacing hardware.”

– CMC Rescue

“This device will greatly simplify rope rescue training and rigging and will serve a principal role in the overall rope rescue system.”

– Chris Hennigar, Rescue Team lead coordinator

You can also check out this video to see the device in action.

Posted by ascentnb on

Thank you Precision Pilates!

Thank you Precision Pilates!

We would like to recognize Fredericton's own Precision Pilates for their continued support of Ascent New Brunswick via a second annual generous cash donation to Ascent New Brunswick.

Precision Pilates Logo

Cara Hazelton, founder and owner of Precision Pilates, has known the New Brunswick climbing world for well over a decade and recognizes the value in preserving access to our local climbing haunts. We owe Cara a big thank you today! Financial support from local businesses such as this is crucial to Ascent New Brunswick in these first few years.

Precision Pilates has been a supporter of the local climbing movement for some time, at times offering super popular movement classes designed for climbers! Go sign up for a workout and you will not be disappointed - the core workout will do wonders for your climbing! Also, check them out on their Facebook page!

 

Posted by Steve Adamson on

Memorial Plaque

Memorial Plaque

Ascent NB is looking at installing a memorial plaque at the Cochrane Lane cliffs for Cory Hall, Don Belliveau, and Ian McDonald.  I am looking for an inspirational poem or saying to install on the plaque along with the names.  If anyone has suggestions please post them here or on Facebook.

Posted by ascentnb on

Crag Improvements

Crag Improvements

A number of climbers made the time over the weekend to improve several popular climbing areas.  This is what a vibrant community is all about... climbers making their crags better!

At the Hatchery, Shawn B., Denise H., Greg H., and Joe K., put in a day of work to develop a new access trail. This is an important piece of work that was done at the request of the landowner and should help to keep the relationship in good shape. We'll get the a map of the new trail up before ice sets in and keep all members posted on any further developments.

At Sunnyside, a number of improvements were made by Dom C., Luc G., Adam M., Eric R., Austin C., Chris N. The trail was widened in areas, re-blazed throughout, and cleared of blowdown all the way to Farside wall. An alternate route up to the main cliff was established which should be less prone to erosion. It leads climbers very near to the bench at Atomic wall. Several sections of boardwalk were installed over 2 small creeks that the trail crosses thanks to a generous donation of lumber from Kent's home building supplies in Fredericton!

20141129_130529~2

As well a number of steel biners were installed to replace work and missing lower-off hardware. Thanks to the UNB Rock & Ice club for this great donation! Please leave any gear you find at Sunnyside anchors alone. It's there so we can all enjoy quick transitions to the next climb.

Again... thanks to everyone who ventured out into the snow to make our crags better!

Posted by ascentnb on

CFB Gagetown Agreement Secured!

CFB Gagetown Agreement Secured!

Over our first year of existence, Ascent NB has been focused on securing land use agreements with the two most important landowners in the province. Today, we can announce that Ascent New Brunswick has secured the agreement with CFB Gagetown!

Securing this agreement was part of the originating idea behind Ascent NB, and so today is a significant day in our Chris_Smithers_10short existence.

The agreement covers all of the cliffs in Welsford that sit on base land: Cochrane Lane Cliffs, Sunnyside, Mount Douglas, and Bald Peak. Considering their position, it is very much a privilege for climbers to have access to these cliffs at all. It is only thanks to a long tradition of climbing and stewardship in the area, combined with the efforts of individuals (who stepped forward during our loss of access in 2005 and secured the UNB Rock and Ice agreement), that this privilege remains intact.

As with any access agreement, Ascent NB members enjoy the privilege of climbing at these areas with knowledge that their presence is supported and encouraged by the landowner. There is more to this agreement, however. CFB Gagetown stipulated several requirements be fulfilled in order to achieve an agreement.

MagdaMrTorpedo_2First, Ascent members will be required to follow the existing call-in procedure. Before entering base land, Ascent members must call Range Control at 506-422-3121 to report their intention to climb.  Continued adherence to this procedure is extremely important to retaining this agreement. Failure to do so will jeopardize access for everybody, let alone just Ascent NB members.

Second, the standard requirement of a significant liability insurance policy to protect land owners from the worry of litigation in the event of an accident. (This is easily our single largest expense - please help by purchasing a membership or making a donation.  Thanks!)

Third, and perhaps most significant, the base required the formation of a rescue team. This team must be able to carry out the technical rescues that are an unfortunate and inevitable outcome of our sport.  The team has been formalized into several plans to be implemented over the coming year, and will support only the climbing areas covered by this agreement. This team will require volunteers, time, money, and training. It will stand as an extremely valuable service to climbers using these cliffs. Ideally, the team will never need to perform, but the extra training and knowledge that the community will gain through the existence of this team will benefit us all, whether at home or abroad.

Stay tuned for more details on the rescue team and what it will mean for our local climbing community! If you are interested in volunteering to be a part of this team, please email ascentnb@gmail.com!

Posted by ascentnb on

Crag Spotlight: McQuirk’s Mountain

Crag Spotlight: McQuirk’s Mountain

Denise belaying Shawn on The Hallway.

If you haven't heard the buzz yet you're behind the times! McQuirk's Mountain, north of St George, is quickly becoming the most popular crack climbing destination in New Brunswick.  This cliff is truly a gem.  While Cochrane Lane has long Patrick Arsenault topping out on Anatomy Lesson 5.8been the focus of traditional climbing in New Brunswick, with a few exceptions there really is a distinct lack of true crack climbing.  There is a jam here and there, but nothing like the concentration you'll find at McQuirk's.

While the cliff is still relatively new you might think it's been seeing traffic for years. This is a testament to the effort put in by the cliff's developers.  Compare the pictures above and below to get an idea of how much lichen and moss *used to be* on the slabs at the bottom of the main face.

While it was actually discovered several years back, it wasn't until Greg Hughes began focusing immense amounts of time and effort that this diamond in the rough transformed into a veritable climbing destination.   He wasn't alone; Greg was joined by MMcQuirk's Mtn - Neutral Tribe early ascentike Parker, Mike Delaney, Stacey Couturier Tait, Shawn Bethune, and Denise Hamel, among others. Over the past four seasons more than 30 routes have been cleaned and equipped. No doubt this trend will continue in the coming years.

The climbs are all traditionally protected, with just a few bolts added for particularly run out sections.  Excluding bolted anchors, there are really only a handful of bolts on the entire cliff and yet in general the climbs all protect well. The gear placements will only get better with time and more traffic as the crystals in the cracks wear down.

Be sure to thank the developers next time you bump into them.  Such work must be a labour of love, but ultimately it is the community that benefits, and so such effort should be recognized.

McQuirk's Mountain is also one of the climbing areas covered by an land use agreement that Ascent NB is in the steps of finalizing with JD Irving. More to come on this agreement in the near future.

As always, pack out what you pack in. On belay!


With increased popularity comes the problems of increased traffic.  Parking is currently limited to a couple options.  The old railway bed is passable for vehicles with sufficient ground clearance, but can only accommodate a couple vehicles and places to turn around are limited.  Parking along the highway shoulder is an easier option and will not block others in, but be sure to park well off the road as it is a provincial highway and drivers may not be expecting cars right along the road on that turn.

A new parking area is currently be surveyed that will accommodate half a dozen vehicles as well as shortening the approach.  More info on this new parking area will be coming soon. Until then please try to park somewhere that you won't be blocking others in.


McQuirk's Mountain

McQuirk's is a short drive north along highway 770 from St George, and an up-to-date route list can be found at climbeasterncanada.com.

Photo credits to Greg Hughes and Steve Adamson.
Posted by ascentnb on

Kletternügen!

Kletternügen!

Ascent NB is pleased to announce financial support from another strong local business - Fredericton Volkswagen!

Many New Brunswick climbers have opted for vehicles from the sleek and efficient Volkswagen line up.  Fredericton VW recognizes this and has decided to give back to the climbing community via donation to Ascent New Brunswick.  This donation will help ensure we continue to cover our insurance costs for the land use agreements we are oh-so-close to finalizing.

Thanks again to Ascent member Dan Caldwell and the rest of the gang at Fredericton Volkswagen for supporting Ascent NB!

Posted by ascentnb on

Hatchery Recap

Hatchery Recap

You are likely not expecting to see snow and ice, but now with summer upon us lets cool off with a recap of how Ascent NB prevented the permanent loss of access to The Hatchery, a high quality ice climbing crag in southern New Brunswick.

The Hatchery was discovered and developed last winter before its existence was revealed to the general climbing public. Nearly as soon as word got out, masses (relative for NB) of people started going there, and not all of them ice climbers.

Soon after that influx we lost our access to it. The approach trail is on private land and the owner decided to deny the public permission to pass through.  Without this access point, travel to the crag would become a one hour bushwhack - not exactly desirable.

Ascent NB immediately contacted the landowner to discuss the situation. Following several phone calls and meetings with the landowner we arrived at a temporary solution that allowed us to finish the season with access to the area. The call in procedure that was stipulated was a bit cumbersome but it permitted climbers to continue enjoying this excellent ice crag.

The owner has been quite happy with the respect shown by our community and is now willing to grant a permanent access agreement to ice climbers who are members of Ascent NB. The existing process will be streamlined; in the fall of 2014, Ascent will issue access passes for The Hatchery to be made visible through the windshield of vehicles parked near the approach trail. This pass will be issued to any member of Ascent New Brunswick who requests one.

If we continue to conduct ourselves in a respectful manner and be good stewards of the land we see this agreement remaining in place indefinitely.

Please support Ascent NB by purchasing a membership to ensure we are able to manage any such future access issues.

Posted by ascentnb on

Progress Update

Progress Update

Summer is nearly upon us and climbing season is in full swing if you can stand the bugs. Thankfully we're not belaying in the snow anymore!

Some of you will be wondering what Ascent New Brunswick has done for its members so far. Long story short, we are on the verge of securing the two most important land use agreements for climbing in this province.

Just last week, Ascent received confirmation of its insurance policy! Through member and partner support we have raised sufficient funds to purchase our first installment of insurance coverage. We are now ready to sign official agreements with landowners.

In early June, we submitted our formal proposal to CFB Gagetown. It must now go through several stages of approval. We do not know how long this process will take, but all indications are that we should have this agreement signed in the very near future.

At the same time, now with the insurance in place we are just awaiting JDI's final approval on our agreement with them.

Thanks again to our members, to UNB Rock and Ice, and to Precision Pilates for your support. This wouldn't be possible without you.

Stay tuned!

Posted by ascentnb on

Safety Alert – Updates

Safety Alert – Updates

Both recent Safety Alerts are now over thanks to the volunteer efforts of our community.

Some Enchanted Evening (Cochrane Lane)

Joe's Garage/L-Shape, probably the most popular area at Cochrane Lane, has had the hazardously hanging dead fall removed. Marty Thériault managed to safely dislodge the dead-hanging tree and trundle it from its high perch. It apparently gave Marty a good battle to actually dislodge it completely despite just "hanging there".

Dihelio (Sunnyside)

The loose fourth bolt on this very popular route has been replaced. It is impressive to see the effect of what must be dozens (or even hundreds at this point) of falls on this bolt over the years; the bolt would not come out with manual force, but was clearly jiggling within the hole. The new bolt is about 15cm up and left from the original, and is now on a vertical plane. This should prevent the same mechanics from loosening it in the future.

Have at it! - Adam