Jon Adamson on A statement on bolts
Ascent New Brunswick does not approve of any unilateral bolt chopping on any route by anyone other than the first ascentionist.
If someone does not like a bolt on a route, they should consult the FA and engage in dialogue in an effort to bring a satisfactory resolution to the matter. If the two individuals can not come to an agreement the general climbing community can then become involved and help determine a solution.
No one has the right to chop bolts on someone else's route! There is a long standing trad climbing ethic of no bolts next to cracks at our most prominent crag Cochrane Lane. This ethic has been extended to Eagle Rock and McQuirks Mountain as both of these cliffs have an abundance of high quality rock with cracks present providing ample protection. This is not to say that bolts are prohibited. There are bolted sport routes scattered all over Cochrane Lane. Leviathan, Tit For Tat, Bone Machine and Hitchiker are a few examples of high quality classic sport lines at CL. These two different styles of climbing can coexist at any crag, in fact it is something that we should strive for as it directly exposes sport climbers to the possibilities of trad and hopefully inspires them to pursue that style when they are ready.
All of our crags should be like this. The possibility of mixed and sport lines at predominantly trad areas should not be precluded if the opportunity exists.